The Perfect Order: Chicken Liver Pate | Summer Squash | Berkshire Pork
When envisioning the ideal restaurant, many may picture a charming Victorian home nestled amidst blooming jacarandas and a quaint lending library. Others may lean towards a hole-in-the-wall establishment that exudes a Rudy-level inspirational vibe. However, the reality often lies in the middle ground – strip malls, the unsung heroes of the restaurant industry in San Diego.
Strip mall restaurants may not have the glamour of seaside views or rustic barn settings, but they offer a unique charm of their own. These hidden gems often fly under the radar, attracting a more discerning crowd of food enthusiasts who appreciate quality over glitz. In a city where commercial space is at a premium, strip malls have become the saving grace of San Diego’s vibrant restaurant culture.
One such gem is Cellar Hand, located in Hillcrest and brought to life by the family behind Pali Wine Co. and chef Logan Kendall. Situated next to a chiropractor’s office and across from a convenience store, Cellar Hand defies expectations with its modern and inviting ambiance. The restaurant’s indoor-outdoor patio experience, complete with planters separating it from the parking lot, sets the stage for a memorable dining experience.
What truly sets Cellar Hand apart is its commitment to sourcing the best ingredients San Diego has to offer. Kendall and sous chef Ashley McBrady have forged relationships with local farmers, fishermen, and bakers to ensure that every dish is a celebration of the region’s bounty. The menu at Cellar Hand is a testament to the farm-to-table movement taken to an extreme, where ingredients are treated with reverence and respect.
From the bluefin nduja toast to the chicken liver pate with orange wine Jell-O shots, each dish at Cellar Hand is a symphony of flavors and textures. The attention to detail is evident in every bite, showcasing the chefs‘ skill and passion for their craft. The use of local produce, such as D’Acquisto tomatoes and Weiser Family Farms melons, elevates the dining experience to new heights.
One standout dish is the Berkshire pork, sourced from Thompson Heritage Ranch in Ramona. Seared in its own fat, basted in brown butter and pineapple sage, and deglazed in Tower 15 „Swell“ wine, this pork dish is a revelation. Paired with candy grapes from R&L Farms and toasted almonds, it is a testament to the quality of ingredients used at Cellar Hand.
In a culinary landscape where authenticity and quality are often overshadowed by trends and gimmicks, Cellar Hand stands out as a beacon of excellence. The restaurant’s dedication to showcasing the best of San Diego’s produce is a testament to the rich agricultural heritage of the region. With each dish, Cellar Hand invites diners to savor the flavors of the land and appreciate the artistry of farm-to-table cuisine.
In a city where space is scarce and competition is fierce, strip mall restaurants like Cellar Hand offer a glimpse into the future of dining in San Diego. As more chefs and restaurateurs embrace the bounty of the region and showcase it with creativity and passion, these hidden gems are poised to become the new culinary hotspots, drawing food enthusiasts from near and far.
